Ladek
(An original delicacy of Bantay)
Brief description:
Ladek is a pork meat (specifically the deboned parts of a pig’s head and intestines) that is first boiled to tender, cooled, then minced and fried in oil up to a time it turns sticky and greasy until it is cooked with its own fat. When served, it becomes a crumb meat meal that requires no ingredient, seasoning or garnishment other than salt to taste. To make it appealing and appetizing, it may be presented in wrapped banana leaves or served directly (as is) from the cooking pot. It goes well with sliced tomatoes perked with fish sauce (patis).
Ladek is a proud discovery product of the town. A recipe that requires no culinary art or mastery, it is bare pork meat crumbs derived as residual titbits when cooking the famous bagnet. The ingenuity of Bantayenos made it a classic meal, though. A superb delicacy food reflective of the resourcefulness and creativity of the town folks. Savour it to experience and relish its delectable flavour. An authentic zest of the Bantay cuisine.
Early ladek:
Its origin and how it all started could be traced back during the Spanish era when the ‘poblaciones’ of Bantay was renowned as home to ‘partidores’ (butchers and slaughterers) and ‘kusineros’ (food chefs), either as an avocation or source of livelihood. In olden times, as elderly folks claim, it really makes a difference when the chicharon or bagnet (deep fried crispy belly pork), longganisa (local meat sausage), dinuguan or dinardaraan (blooded pork meat) are made from Bantay because of its uniquely delectable taste and exquisite blend compared from those sold from other towns. Foods prepared by them must be superbly sumptuous, so they say. These partidores and kusineros were responsible in introducing ladek; first, for personal consumption only, next to the neighbourhoods, then it reached among other communities and later even beyond the town. Its discovery was by chance or unintentional and was brought about by local demands for its plain and simple meaty flavour.
The story behind its making:
The Ladek recipe` dates back from the time chicharon (bagnet) making was also conceived. This is so because after all, ladek is, supposedly, the remaining meat crumbs that accumulate at the bottom of the ‘silyasi’ (a deep metal cooking pan or ‘kawa’ in tagalog) in the process of cooking chicharon (bagnet); similar to the ‘tutong’ in tagalog or ‘ittip’ in the vernacular, referring to the excess particles that stuck in the casserole when cooking rice. Like any leftovers, initially, it was never given importance and merely given away to the lowly partidores and kusineros as token for all their labors since it was regarded of no value and meant anyway to be discarded. When brought home, however, it is shared among their families and friends and because it was so luscious, crunchy soft, flavourful, tangy, more delightful and tastier than its source, which is the chicharon (bagnet), it becomes an ideal viand. It was not intended then for sale that is why it is only of limited quantity and not even available for public consumption. But while it is taken freely by partidores and kusineros, their pals would await and seek for ladek after being through with their cooking works. This gave rise for them to surreptitiously add grated pork to increase the meat crumbs that remain after cooking its main, the chicharon (bagnet), so they could liberally produce and sneakily bring home more. Still, the demands for ladek continued that prompted partidores and kusineros to purposely cook ladek, simultaneous or mixed with the chicharon (bagnet), and offer it now for sale. By then, the cost of ladek was cheaper than chicharon (bagnet). Nevertheless, ladek spreads further that residents in the poblaciones longed to buy and savour its succulent taste and sticky meat grains. Soon thereafter, due to vast demands among neighbourhoods, partidores and kusineros were encouraged to cook ladek separately and as an independent dish for commercial purposes, this time at a price same with that of its principal, the chicharon (bagnet).
Ladek at present times:
Ladek only became known in the 1950’s, but it is believed that the first commercial ladek was cooked in the mid 1960’s, neatly wrapped individually in banana leaves bought by piece and not by weight as being done nowadays.
In earlier times (70 to 90’s), many entrepreneurs ventured in the making of ladek; presently, however, only a few are now engaged because of ‘interventions’ such as the need for capital, economic instability, marketability, labor cost, production difficulty, fluctuating cost of hogs and even perhaps lack of technical skill. The truth is, even among Bantayenos, particularly the younger generations who are not from the poblaciones, several do not know this delicacy and that it was invented in this town. Moreover, its production is not pursued in large scale because the making and packaging is yet to be quality controlled in accordance with national standards or criteria prescribed under existing food regulations.
Today, avid connoisseurs of ladek, particularly among households of Bantay, enjoy this mouth-watering meal by cooking it home-made. The recipe is no secret, it is pure and bare, but somewhat tedious to prepare. It can be stored and preserved in the refrigerator and reheated in the oven, microwave or ordinary pan. It can last for days, weeks and even months without losing its splendid taste and stickiness as long as kept properly. A great ‘fast food’ and perfect ‘baon’ on outings and picnics, so yummy to devour the fragmented greasy meat in a plate of banana leaves with your bare hands coupled with your favourite dip or seasoning
Verily, ladek is no longer just a by-product or derivative of chicharon (bagnet) but a delicious fine meal by itself. Though it has gained popularity by the passing of time, it still awaits to be tapped to be more competitive in the market.